Horse & Yoga Travel: Romania, Sep 2023
With its enchanting forests, grassy meadows, changeable weather and quaint farming villages, Romania was the perfect location for my second yoga and riding retreat, although it couldn’t have been more different from my first trip to Morocco.
I’d swapped the wild North African coastline for Europe’s open fields and hidden forest trails; I’d switched the noise of the powerful ocean waves crashing against the shore for the sound of twigs snapping and rivers flowing; and I’d traded in climbs up soft, creamy sand dunes for tranquil treks over rolling country hills and farmland. As I’d hoped, each destination was wonderfully therapeutic in its own unique way.
My yoga student, Tara, came with me on this first, exploratory jaunt. We opted for a three-day, mini-break rather than a week-long vacay, and, for a bit of adventure (and a slightly cheaper journey), made our own way to the guesthouse mostly by train, which gave us a glimpse of city life in Romania before we hid ourselves away in the wilderness.
Upon arrival at the guesthouse in the tiny village of Șinca Nouă, we received a warm greeting from the lovely team at Equus Silvania and another group of guests, followed by a delicious and fun dinner, with wine flowing and people chatting about horses. The wooden interior of the guesthouse made for a rustic and cosy feel, and we slept in quiet, comfy rooms with windows that looked out at the hills and the barn.
On the first day, after breakfast, we helped tack up the horses and set off on our very first trail ride. The terrain allowed for plenty of trots and canters on forward-going and relaxed horses, and the route took us through varying scenery, which included hills, valleys, fields and forests, and some spectacular views. The weather was also perfect — sunny and warm even in September, which meant we could take on the outdoors in sleeveless tops and lightweight jodhpurs or riding tights.
We returned from the ride happy, and after a delicious lunch, headed up the hill to the arena and fields to practice yoga. I have to admit that I normally enjoy yoga in a studio and with music, but this was a fantastic opportunity to tune in to the calming sounds of nature, to do some earthing (bury our bare feet in the grass and reconnect with the earth’s natural electric charge) and to breathe in the clean, fresh air. We also experimented with some partner yoga poses and, since we were outdoors, took the opportunity to snap pictures alongside the horses as they gathered in the school.
After yoga, it was time for some pre-dinner wine and then more great food. One of the many things I really liked about Equus Silvania was that the food was mainly locally-produced and organic, with lots grown in their garden, meat coming from their own chicken and pigs, or else sourced locally from organic farmers and neighbours. I’m a vegetarian of course, but I can’t recall a single meal that I didn’t enjoy (and devour).
The next day, we opted for yoga in the morning, and were joined by our guide Sam on the back paddock, which overlooked lush green peaks, for an awakening vinyasa flow. After breakfast, we headed off on another morning ride but with different horses, which was nice, as we got to try a new pony each time. I remember feeling super relaxed as we explored a new route under crystal-clear, blue skies; clambered through a gorgeous forest with sunlight streaming in through the trees; and then made our way home over grassy hills with fabulous views and the village rooftops in the distance. (Of course, we also enjoyed some exhilarating canters).
On the third day, we began with another revitalising morning yoga session (two of the guides joined this time) followed by a hike through the nearby Virgin Forest. The tour, which I’d been looking forward to, was surprisingly challenging given the steep incline and lack of well-trodden footpaths, but the crisp air and energetic walk was invigorating and refreshing. I was also mesmerised by the eclectic mix of mushrooms, and one particular, electric-green bug. I was also very happily reassured that this magical place — seemingly a hotspot for biodiversity — was absolutely flourishing without human interference (and home to the tallest known tree in Romania).
And then, it was time for our last ride. Despite the sun’s hasty departure, we had a fantastic afternoon hack, not least because the horse I rode was my favourite of the week — a gorgeous mare named Tamirah. The very light rain and cloud also made the scene more eerie and mystical.
But if anything was going to leave me feeling a little excited-nervous this week, it wasn’t the weather, but the bears! On the last evening, having already seen some tracks in the wild, we finally got to see the free-roaming brown bears in real life, brought together by their love of the food put out by the ranger. We watched them in the hide from a little viewing hut, with only faint whispers allowed. It was amazing to see, and I was impressed not only by their speed and agility but of the bravery of the foxes who’d come to join the feast.
And before we knew it, it was time to say goodbye. We left feeling refreshed, relaxed and happy, and having experienced exactly what we came for – a nourishing and fun escape with plenty of yoga and riding, and the chance to completely immerse ourselves in nature as we explored a small part of this intriguing eastern European country. When the time comes to return, I only hope to stay a little longer!
Interested to join next time? Email me: elizabeth@yogaforhorseriders.com
